![]() Vehicles factory equipped with 100, 200, and 400 amp alternators have the battery direct wiring factory installed. Basic and A1 vehicles upgraded to 100, 200, and 400 amp alternators must have the alternator wiring harness modification in place (done when the alternator is installed) so the alternators output does not go through the control box. ![]() The injectors are banked in groups of 3 but they will still start if one. 1) Is your engine wire harness in good condition? 2) Is your alternator a 60amp unit? The PCB that Erik's sells has the following warning.Only the 60 amp alternators can power directly through the control box. A pull start will just spin the engine faster to generate more pressure for starting. New glow plugs should be put in when you replace the PCB and TSU. Also, a grounding harness (which is a sticky) may also help, since the HMMWV given its aluminum body and maybe 20-30 year old wiring might not be grounded. As others have said, the PCB should have correct and matching Temp sensor. The bottom line is, the Wait To Start (WTS) light should be coming on for 8-10 seconds if the motor is cold and the outside temp is cold. I'm by no means an expert, as I am running down my own issues.but I have learned a bit. The glow plugs may also suffer, but are a much lower priority, IMHO. If the solutions don’t help, then it might be time to replace the equipment. Is your chainsaw getting old, hard to work with, and rusty If yes, there are a few things you can do to try and fix it. My understanding is that the issue with starting fluid is the combo of energy density, flash point and high compression makes it prone to pre-detonation, which can brake internal engine parts. There could be many reasons why your chainsaw won’t start. Else, a block heater, or blowing a space heater on low at the engine in the garage to heat the block (like how piston aircraft pre-heat engines when cold). How about options to pre-heat your engine to see if it starts (safer than starting fluid)? I've heard that blowing a hair dryer down the air intake can often be enough. So you should be able to ballpark how many are/aren't working based on voltage drop. Call us at 1-87 or email us here to report your results and or for further assistance. If not, then you may need a new ignition coil. I don't have the numbers in front of me, but there is an expected current draw per GP. If you have spark now, you need to replace the silver cube which is a ground diode designed to create a ground that the ON/OFF switch and Oil Sensor use to kill the spark. ![]() How about continuity checking the glow plug wires from the control box to each glow plug?ĭo you see your voltage drop when your glow plugs should be heating, even though the light doesn't come on? That would be evidence that they are receiving current. But looking at pasts posts, I didn't see responses about adding a grounding harness.
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